Home again, home again, jiggity jig...
Although it appears we had a few more skeptics than we realized, Mom and I successfully finished our trip and returned home, on time, still speaking, and with a million good memories. It was sad to part with Angie, say goodbye to ST and Tammy, and end such a wonderful adventure; however, we returned home to happily awaiting Northeasterners who were delighted we came back and brought the sunshine. Now back to our daily routine, although that is a rather loose phrase at the moment since both Mom and I will have to sort out what our next steps will be. Thanks so much to all of you for following our travels. We have a plethora of stories that never made it to the blog so feel free to email, call, or come by and see photos depending on where you are. If you have no idea how to do any of these things, comment on the blog with a way for us be in touch with you and we promise to respond. We hope you use this as inspiration for an adventure of your own.
Happy trails, Maggie and Naomi (mom)

Well, Maggie and Mom made it back to San Francisco, but not without one last adventure on the way. We just had to stop in Castroville, the artichoke capital of the world and have their famous, deep-fried artichoke hearts for lunch. They actually ARE as good as their hype, and Maggie and I left feeling quite satisfied. The two-hour trip to San Francisco was basically uneventful after that (just lots of traffic) and now I'm at ST and Tammy's home while Maggie and ST attend a lecture (good for Maggie for having the energy to go!). The former mayor of Bogota, Columbia is speaking about how to use urban planning to create healthy outdoor spaces. I'll be all ears when they get back, but for now I'm trying to organize the mountain of 'stuff' we have before returning dear Angie in the morning...

The last leg of our trip has included three nights and two and a half days in the Carmel/Monterey area. The idea was to 'chill' a bit after all that driving, and staying here was just the salve we thought it would be! This picture of us was taken at the end of our afternoon at the beach in Carmel (a real beauty). The area also provided us with lots of company, brunch with Asa Kesner, the world-famous aquarium with Emma and Pam Richter, and a fantastic dinner at the local Monterey Fish House with newly-married Tim and Syrah McGivern (thanks everyone, we really enjoyed visiting with you!). One photo is of seahorses, the aquarium's special exhibit right now, and the other is of the extraordinary jellies on permanent display. Maggie and I spent our last night in Angie and are now preparing for our final drive to San Francisco where we will connect with family and friends for several days before heading home. Still hope to post a couple more entries...

San Simeon (Hearst's Castle) is a remarkable feat of architecture, building and sheer determination. Based on a Mediterranean villa, the "ranch," as it was called, defies description. Maggie and I basically spent the entire tour with our mouths open. But the 'piece de resistance' was when we were driving down highway 1, having just left the complex, and we spotted some of the zebra herd descendants that the Hearst's set free when the state came to confiscate them! There are five tours in all (some people try to take all five in one day)! We felt lucky to get on the tour we did, which included Hearst's private quarters, some of the upper floor guest rooms, his private library (4000 volumes or something like that), the kitchen (which was every bit as big as some of the institutional kitchens we've seen) and of course the two pools (the indoor pool is the most photographed pool in the world). Well, maybe we don't have all our facts exactly right, but suffice to say we were WAY impressed! Though a little confused what anyone 'needed' that size house for!

Old picture (a few days ago, Grand Canyon, Desert View campground) new story...got a later start than we'd hoped this morning, then hit a detour (don't you love detours when you have no idea where you are to begin with?). Got to Paso Robles where we came to understand that you DON'T travel (even in state parks) on July 4 weekend without a reservation. We persevered, nonetheless, just hoping something would work out. Felt like 'luck' was with us when we got to Hearst Castle, found out all the tours for the day were booked, and then through a little miracle got tickets anyway! (Pics of that unbelievable place soon.) Decided to try our luck at San Simeon State Park even though they had already informed us via phone that they were full up. Got there only to have them reiterate said fact. Drove a couple miles up Rte 1 (on the beautiful ocean coast) and after just one other stop found a kind lodge owner who let us park in his lot for the night (ocean view, free wifi!, restaurant and mini-mart) all for 20 dollars! Just as we're getting settled in, the state park called us with a spot from a cancellation! Have decided to stay put since our sunset-perfect, oceanview couldn't get any better, but are feeling greatly encouraged for tomorrow's trek further up this Big Sur coastline. Maggie is reading beside me, the sun is getting ready for its big splash of the day, and life is good...

Yesterday was a travel day as we try to work our way back over to the California coast. We were able to leave Las Vegas by noon and by some miracle had no problem getting on Rte. 15w. We DID, however, run into some fierce weather! Maggie captured the storm clouds moving in, but we had to sit out the major thunder and lightning storm for over an hour on a little construction road off the highway. Of course we were travelling over a narrow mountain pass at the time the heavens opened up! When the storm subsided, we travelled through Barstow (the only major population center in about 100 miles and 'major' is using the term loosely) and determined we'd attempt to make it to Bakersfield for the night. We hadn't planned on the fact that rte. 58 (which we picked up in Barstow) was completely flat for many miles and the wind was a lot for our dear Angie (and me!) to handle! Keeping her on the road with the big trucks that utilize that road was a major feat! Maggie is a trooper even though I'm sure she saw her life flash before her several times! We did make it safely to Bakersfield, but encountered our first mishap with the campground we thought we'd stay in--it wasn't there! (I'm sure it's still somewhere, but it certainly isn't where our guide said it was!) So we had to book our first unplanned hotel stay which with the temps reaching111 degrees was probably not the worst choice. Today we'll make it to the coast and try to book one of the first-come, first-served campsites (again)--wish us luck! Ps. The storm did make way for this gorgeous, end-of-our-day sunset...

Las Vegas! ONCE is great!! We packed quite a bit in, considering we were there for just under 24 hours! Stayed at the pyramid at left (the Luxor), caught the new Cirque de Soleil show with Criss Angel (Believe), and got out in time for Maggie to catch this beautiful shot of the fountains in front of the Bellagio (where Oceans 11 was filmed). Ate some great food, saw Dale Chihuly's glass flower ceiling, walked around in some real heat (nearly 100 degrees) and all-in-all had a whopping good time. Maggie and I went to sleep sometime after 2 a.m. and still managed to get up and ready by checkout time! (11 a.m.) Oh, did I mention we won thirty dollars at the slot machines?

Elk seems to be our wildlife of choice this trip! This one stopped traffic in Canyon Village for literally hours! Eventually several rangers came and shooed him away...we regretfully said goodbye to the Grand Canyon yesterday afternoon, after an invigorating hike around a portion of the 12-mile rim trail, followed by a scrumptious lunch (prickly pear quesadillas) at El Tovar, the oldest canyon hotel (as opposed to lodge, not that we ever found out the difference) built in 1905. Didn't make it too far--about 60 miles to Williams, AZ where we set up temporary residence on Cataract Lake in the Kaibab National Forest. Have also made two visits to a great coffee shop in town, where we brushed our teeth, and had coffee (naturally) and Lil' Orbit donuts. Don't laugh, they're the only donuts we've ever had that don't land like lead in your stomach! Now we're on to Las Vegas where we've booked our first hotel of the trip (come on, it's Maggie's first time in Las Vegas!)--we're staying at the Luxor, right on the Strip, should be a riot! We're also going to try to pick up some same day Cirque de Soleil tickets--wish us luck!

We made it to the Grand Canyon! Although our guidebook called it a simple "crack in an otherwise flat landscape" (when comparing it to Canyonlands), it is, in fact, quite beautiful. True, it does not have the three-tiered perspective of Canyonlands, nor is it mostly devoid of people, giving us the deceptive notion that we are the only humans coming to visit the spectacular views that the rivers created. The Grand Canyon, rather, is a an immense landscape that cannot be measured by a camera or explored by an one individual. Most of its 'best' attributes are inaccessble to ordinary people and that which is, has large crowds. But this only adds to the larger than life feeling that the Grand Canyon holds and the awe that is felt by most who come to see it. Needless to say we are enjoying our time here despite the fact that it is our 6th national park! From the pictures you can see just what is occupying our time. The picture of sunset over the Grand Canyon was taken yesterday after a horribly droning talk by a ranger called 'love and death' --clearly we had no idea what we were getting into and would have regretted it completely except for the beautiful view of the sunset that directly followed. The picture of mom shows her bravely conquering her fear of heights and enjoying each lookout as much as possible even though she sees danger everywhere. Finally, the last picture shows the unfortunate location of much of our morning...the Grand Canyon Clinic. The swelling that occurred in my bottom left gum around the hole left by the wisdom tooth that was taken out last month, did not go away. So we visited the clinic where, surprisingly, we had an amazing nurse practitioner help us and attempt to convince my oral surgeon back in MA that I didn't need to rush to Flagstaff and find another oral surgeon to drain whatever is in there. So, all in all, we came out thinking we were quite lucky with just a bottle of penicillin to show for it and my still slightly lopsided face.

Navajo National Monument is another one of those 'must sees'--at left the gorgeous sunset from our campsite there. Maggie is standing between a split juniper tree and our shadows were captured on an early morning walk to the abandoned cave dwelling, Betatakin. Being able to camp here was an absolute gift. Headed out traveling through Navajo land almost exclusively until we reached the east entrance of the Grand Canyon (yesterday). It's hot, but very bearable. Sleeping last night in the quiet Desert View campground (within the park) was most pleasant. Maggie developed a sore jaw (from her wisdom teeth extractions?) More on that to follow (from Maggie herself). Now we have moved our campsite to the more populated Mather campground which is right here in the middle of Canyon Village. We're actually pleased to have had a taste of both...

Maggie and I are in Bluff, Utah, population unknown, (but not many!) having lunch at an amazing (and unlikely) coffee shop which lo and behold has wifi! (Along with chilled chai and mocha drinks!) We are halfway to our camp spot at Navajo Natn'l Park and just enjoying a little down time. (It didn't hurt that some of this was mandated by the fact that our camel pack leaked all over the bed and we've been sun-drying the quilt and bedding while we chill.) Wish you all could see this adorable place---perhaps you can get a hint by looking at their entrance cuppa at left. More soon...

Maggie and I slept at our first KOA campground last night--a whole world unto itself--though, it's amazing what a good night's sleep and a hot shower will do for us! Maggie captured this 'moon over Moab' just before we fell asleep...

Here we are at Arches National Park after spending yesterday around the corner at Canyonlands National Park. Rena, our AAA consultant, was sure we'd be national park'ed out, but that certainly isn't the case yet! In this photo, Maggie is under the arm of a Juniper tree. These trees shed limbs every year to conserve energy and utilize the little water they have. They're amazing like everything else here. We got to sleep inside the park yesterday at the small, 10-site campground. So peaceful AND we had a fire and made S'mores! Life is good. More soon...

Well folks, today was a tough day. You know it's not a good sign when you both start and end in an RV park. All started off well as we made good time to Salt Lake City, Utah from middle-of-no-where, Wyoming (seriously I don't even remember the name but it was truly the west you read about in cowboy tales). After a phenomenal lunch at the Red Iguana, a recommendation from Uncle Steven we visited the Mormon temple where many attempted and failed to convert us, no shock there. Then the day took a downward spin as we saw a gruesome accident on highway 6, which we later learned from the friendly people in Price, UT, is the most dangerous road in the whole country. The only good part about the accident was that we were literally right in front of the car that crashed so we were not part of the backup that surely came afterwards. Unfortunately, we saw the WHOLE thing and the odds didn't look good (it appeared the driver was drunk since the car was weaving and out of control). That certainly put a damper on our moods but the cute coffee shop we are in now and the exceedingly nice people here are helping to ease our nerves. Now we will go to the "campsite," watch a movie, and head out to Arches tomorrow! Just so you know, the pictures (again totally unrelated) are from Berkeley Pit in Butte, MT which is a working copper mine.

Twenty-nine degrees this morning in Yellowstone! See my new pink winter jacket? The falls behind us look fake but are VERY real. This is SOME country. The bison walked right in front of our car in the Lemar Valley. Also saw two bald eagles (may have even been golden eagles, but we haven't been able to confirm that). Slept at Hyalite Creek two nights ago--quiet and very beautiful. Entered Yellowstone to cold weather and snow squalls! Now we're just about to leave the Grand Tetons (indescribably gorgeous) and Jackson Hole heading south on highway 89 towards Salt Lake City. Hope to arrive there tomorrow. Till then...

Sorry for the long pause folks. We have not been moving around as much these past few days but certainly we were not idle. Here is a photo from Josh and Andi's wedding at Holland Lake, MT. The festivities kept us busy for nearly 4 days (mom and dad officiated). The ceremony was of course beautiful and the break came at a perfect time. Now we are on the road again, enjoying Angie (our van!), and heading to Yellowstone with a stop in Bozeman tonight. More soon.

We had to climb two and a half miles up to reach this destination (Avalanche Lake, Glacier National Park), but it was well worth it. ST and Tammy saw a grizzly bear with her two cubs AND a mountain lion the day before (on the eastern side of the park), but we only saw a white-footed rabbit and this vista. All-in-all, I'd say we did okay.

Maggie ran back to the car for her camera upon entering this supermarket in Libby, Montana. I guess you can't blame her, it's not everyday you see the walls lined with game heads! People probably thought we were a little nuts, but we HAD to have these photos!

State five, on our way to Glacier National Park. Montana is exceptionally gorgeous as you will see in upcoming photos. We are on our way to meet ST and Tammy and quite excited to be crossing the state border! Sorry Elisa, we didn't get our nails done in Coeur d'Alene--but we will be returning to the southern regions of Idaho in about a week and will keep you posted about our reception then!

Sunset over Pend Oreille, Sandpoint, Idaho. June 15. As you can see, Maggie is taking amazing photos!

Hello from Coeur d'Alene Idaho, our 1st stop in our 4th state! Once again our photo does not match our current location. This picture is from Pike Place Market in Seattle where we poked around yesterday. After spending the morning in the big city we headed to Vantage, WA which is a little nowhere town with an absolutely stunning state park called Wanapum (overlooking the Columbia River...as is everything else, its a LONG river). Though we thought we might blow away due to the fierce winds we survived the night! Mom also survived the gondola skyride over the Spokane Falls though for a moment I was worried (did I mention she is afraid of heights?). After this short coffee break (which we take many of and quite enjoy!) we are heading further NE towards Glacier National Park, where we intend to meet ST and Tammy yet again (tomorrow evening). Never quite sure where the road will take us even though we have copious amounts of maps, books, and a planned itinerary. We might be heading into Internet-free territory but will touch base again whenever we can.

Okay, so the images aren't always going to match the day's entry. Coordinating all the tech equipment from the van takes LOTS of organization and Mags and I are usually WAY too busy (either driving, sightseeing, eating, etc...). Today we 'did' the city of Portland, OR. Their Saturday Farmer's Market was the perfect thing to clear our minds and tempt our palette, after yesterday's good long day of driving. We also made it to Powell's Bookstore (the nation's largest independent bookstore) and finally picked up a Rough Guide USA, which instantly became our faithful companion. Maggie is able to read it aloud in the car when I'm driving (I'm a total wimp and get carsick just thinking about reading while moving), but Maggie reads away and we get a little glimpse of where we're headed and it is a fabulous boon to our travels. Back on the road after a wonderful coffee at Sydneys' Coffee Shop with an old Middlebury friend of Addie's. (Thanks, DeVeau!) Tonight we're in Seattle, WA, staying at a hotel compliments of ST and Tammy who have a layover here on their way to Glacier, MT. What fun! We'll even get a game of Bananagrams in--pure heaven.

Two days down, we're still alive! Though we've already "recalculated" (as our dear Gladys Garmin says!) Took too long to go up the coast of California, but we wouldn't have missed it for the world---but had to cut Crater Lake. Now we're just trying to get to Portland (OR), but everyone keeps saying it's three hours no matter HOW far away we are! :) We keep laughing though, and oooohing and aaaahing at the incredible views and changes in topography. We're loving Angie (she's our faithful van---turns out she's a 2000 GMC Safari--don't know what happened to the Astro.) Don't be deceived by our sunglasses--that was the only five minutes of warmth we've had so far! Right now we're writing from the most adorable independent bookstore/cafe EVER (in Sutherlin, OR). Maggie and I want to start one. Who knows how many things we're going to want to start after this trip. Right now, so far so good. More soon (though connecting to the Internet has been challenging!).

What we THINK we're doing!

June

 9: Fly to San Francisco 

10: Pick up sleeper van (at Lost Campers USA, Inc) at 8am—head up coastal route 1/101 toward Portland. (stop in Mendocino? Camp in Eureka?).

11: Continue up Rte. 101 (Crater Lake?)-- travel approx. 400 miles stop for night.

12: Continue up coast to Portland, Ore. Stop for night (Matt Cadenelli’s acoustic concert?)

13: Spend morning in Portland (farmer’s market) then continue on to Seattle 

14: Spend day in and around Seattle 

15: Head to Coeur d'Alene, Idaho (late morning or midday) with a stop in Spokane, WA

16: Morning in Coeur d'Alene and then head over to Glacier Nat'l Park (west entrance)

17: Spend day in Glacier.

18: Morning in Glacier and then head to Seeley Lake (MT)

19-21: Seeley Lake for Josh and Andi’s wedding

21: Head to Yellowstone

22: Yellowstone 

23: Head to Salt Lake City (via Grand Tetons and Jackson Hole?)

24: Spend morning in SLC head to Arches, (camp at Canyon Lands), Moab

25: Spend day at above three.

26: Head south through Monument Valley to Kayenta camp at Navajo Nat’l Mon.

27: Travel south via scenic rte 160 to Tuba City to rte 89 to 64 to south rim Grand Canyon

28: Spend day at south rim

29: Travel to west rim and bridge

30: Head to Las Vegas--see Hoover Dam on way

July

1: Spend day and night in Las Vegas

2: Head out early to Death Valley spend day head toward Big Sur

3: Arrive Big Sur—Hearst’s Castle (San Simeon)

4: Find Fourth of July celebration. Celebrate! (beach day?)

5: Lunch at Sierra Mar with Asa (Post Ranch Inn--30 miles south of Carmel on Rte. 1)

6: Day in Carmel/Monterrey (beach?)

7: Morning in Santa Cruz (with Emma)--head to San Francisco

8: Return van

9: Fly to Boston

10: Arrive Boston early a.m.